Happy Birthday Glasto!

Mud, Mud, glorious Mud (okay well maybe not this year, glorious sunshine instead), this iconic festival has arrived to the tune of it's 40th Birthday! It all began in 1970, the day after Jimi Hendrix died, a small idea by farmer/entrupenur Michael Eavis transformed into a major UK event, which is now famous on an inteinternational scale. Stumbling across the Blues Festival & West showground sowed the seeds of intrigue and imaginationation and the very next day Eavis booked the Kinks for £500. The essence of the festivals roots are still there, granted it is on a larger scale, with milk from the farm being sold for £1 for the revelers.

"I never imagined it becoming such a huge event, but I deal with it one year at a time...I am so privileged to be able to share my farm with hundreds and thousands of people, where they can experience unspeakable pleasures, learn about life's enduring values, and have memories to last them a lifetime!"
- Michael Eavis (Foreword from Glastonbury Another Stage 2010)

Through the ups and down Eavis vision is still evolving and growing to what the festival is today, it is a great achievement for all the annual organisers and is now a british music institution... even if usually it does bring the rain. This year the sun has been kind on it's ruby anniversary and although unfortunately not there I assume the ground has remained in tack and no wellies are needed. 

To celebrate this turning of age, Photographer extraordinaire Venetia Dearden, a local to the hills of Pilton whom experienced the plight of the yearly gathering on her own doorstep from young had always been drawn to the colour, variety and excitement of it all. Deardens previous work includes the likes of Vogue so equipt in her field of knowledge she has produced a retrospective book of her 6 year on-site documentations of the picked out individuals from the 150,000 festival-goers that attend each year. She captures the ececentricity, the uniquiness and the quirks of them all. From year on year you can see the evolution of the outfits, especially those from the years of the mud. A beautifully presented compilation of portraits from the famous performers who have graced the stage to the unknowns who have humor, joy and some look well-and-truly festivalled-out! A must buy reminiscent tool for anyone who has been lucky enough to have been apart of the history of the countryside event and a complete insight for those that have yet to attend (like myself). It's a whole new world and one that celebrates all that is good in the world, diversity!

Glastonbury - Another Stage (Hardcover)
by Venetia Dearden (Author)

Hardcover: 368 pages
Publisher: Kehrer Verlag (16 April 2010)
Language English
ISBN-10: 3868280464
ISBN-13: 978-3868280463
Product Dimensions: 23.2 x 17.8 x 3.4 cm
RRP: £20.00
Price: £19.08 from Amazon.co.uk

" There's a sense of elation, a sense of a microcosm of contemporary life. In today's fractured, lonely and alienating society, coming together, in an idyllic setting with other like-minded souls is paradise
- Candace Bahouth (Introduction from Glastonbury Another Stage 2010)

(For Kate!) 


The New Equilibrium

A few weeks back now, I attended Mudpie's Autumn/Winter 2011/12 trends seminar at my old haunt of London College of Fashion. 
It was thought-provoking if anything and was a great insight, if a little much to take in all at once. 
Fiona Jenvey, CEO of Mudpie and in her words an 'accidental entrepreneur' kicked off the business in 1992 with a focus on design consultancy. Now represented in over 50 countries internationally mudpie have 9 trend books, online resource MPDclick and also offering there core value of consultancy working with many leading brands. 
Fiona who presented the main bulk of the seminar provided the audience with a concise 'round-up'  Mudpie's 3 key trends for the coming season. which are: Synergy, Primal and Innovate, see below.  
Synergy::: Pragmatism, simplicity, efficiency and considered. 
  • The end of decadence - changing patterns of consumption- new modern living. 
  • Reality not idealism 
  • Eliminating waste - product and process. 
  • An alternate path for consumer growth - important to share knowledge with your customer, i.e social media
Fabrics::: Cut out, devore, felted and matted effects, loose weaves, jacquard, tapestry and embossing. 
Graphics::: String-art 1970's, female craftsmanship, illustration- pen and ink. Tonal and linear. William Morris inspired prints. 

The Look::: Casual comfort - tailoring, jersey wrap, devore neckline. 
Runway Inspiration::: Junko Shimada, D&G, Kenzo - Volume, geometric knit, combat traveller look, Scandinavian. 
Street Style::: geometrics, vintage denim, playsuits made formal. 
Retail::: Elasticated detail, gathered, harem jumpsuit, peasant dresses. 
Footwear and Accessories::: Skater wedge heel boot (Disco copenhagen), Chunky neckwear (Rodarte), Oversized chain (Michael Kors). 
Denim::: repurposing - pockets overlaid, stone wash (90's). 
Active Trends (sport)::: Racer back shapes, breathable panels, detachable sleeves, place for integrated ipod. 

The Look::: Simple shapes, slash kneck t-shirts, double ended zips, rolled up tapered shorts, sportswear, vintage indigo. 
Runway Inspiration::: semi formal, Ann Demeulemeester. voluminous pant around the waist, chino trousers and scarfs. 
Street Style::: slash necks customized, layered, nordic traveller, socks- bright, individual elements. 
Retail::: Two tone, pinstripe cargo pant, tapered crop pant. 
Footwear and Accessories::: quilled effect on shoes - green laces, Louis Vuitton oversized bag - no logos,  Armani gloves - inside contrast colour, element of surprise and individualism. 
Denim:::  Crackeled, marbled, contrast colour and oily look. 
Active Trends (sport)::: surfboard market, alternate hoodie cords and technical plaid.

All trends are looked at in three phases: 
Phase #1. Regeneration -  Nordic social values and design influences
e.g: Thinking about the creative city, the creative environment. Investment and regeneration of creativity,    Stockholm being a prime example. Sweden submits more patent applications than any-other country and therefore weathering the storm of the recession well. The creative brand is the more profitable brand! (The design council)  

synergy can be eptiomised in Jean Nouvel spa in France, 'Les Bains des Dock'. The design is based on the community style Roman baths, which brings the locals together, a social space for well-being. 

via Daily Icon 

Phase #2. Collectivism - Collective intelligence and knowledge sharing 
e.g: Inspired by extreme handicraft, imperfections makes items unique. utilize the old, make something new and valuable.  

There is a certain beauty in Una Hilm Kristjansdottir 'un-finshed' look designs (below).  

Via A212

Phase #3. Resolve - actually doing something about it, acknowledging the need to change. 

Copenhagen climate conference, happened last year, although the result was maybe not achieved to what most people would like but the symbolism of it taking place and the events that took place around it are an important factor.

Alternate fashion week for example, saw major brand Levi setting out their sustainability plan for 2020. 

Primal::: Collectivism & resourcefulness 
  • Renewed sense of spirituality 
  • Natural World
  • Conscious effort towards change 
Equinox - symbols in nature, pagan festivals, balance, well-being, wholeness, self-fulfillment, interest in ancient civilization and artifacts, instinct, survival nomadic living. Avatar -  Pandora close to nature, totem fashion from designer Bernard Wilhelm and Green festivals such as Denmark ross kiehl.

For example artist Geoffrey Gorman - which make sculptures from entirely from found items and Guss
Oosterbaan rock radio are examples of recycling and repurposing.

via Koki

Consumers are becoming used to the recycled aesthetics which are crossing all design barriers from:
Rodarte- tribal nomadic warrior style to Norway's global sea vault - to help us survive in the event of an apocalypse, the notion inspired Margaret Atwood's book 'The Year Of The Flood' which is brought on by large organisations. Our distrust with large organisations means it is very in vogue for companies to appear smaller.

The Look::: fluid silhouette, draping, shredded, floral, harem pants and peasant dresses. 
Runway Inspiration::: Missoni - blanket coat, maxi length , Cric, bernhard Willhelm
Street Style::: customized items, festival look, multi layered jewelry.   
Footwear and Accessories::: Medieval studded, chains, turnover tops and multi-charms. 

The Look::: granddad t-shirts, faded, plaid, off bias cut, cowl necks, crackled leather.  
Runway Inspiration::: Topman, W Anderson, Miharayasuhiro
Footwear and Accessories:::  collection of necklaces, plaid knits, leather, rope, molten effect and texture. 

Innovate::: Observation, knowledge and technology. 
  • Race is on - new solutions
  • 'intellectual age'
  • science rather than nature
  • competitive intelligence - scientists to become the future celebrities. 

Fabrics::: geometrics - retro futurism 
The Look::: Sporty engineered garments, asymmetric cut, geometry - triangular effect. 
Runway Inspiration::: Brioni, Louise Goldin and Belle Sauvage (beware disturbing soundtrack on site!). 
Street Style::: pleated detail and prints
Footwear and Accessories::: shattered glass mirror necklace and Linda Farrow glasses
Denim::: insert paneling, contrast stitch detail. 

The Look::: Crew neck garments, simple stripping and technical. 
Runway Inspiration::: Tim Hamilton, Raf Simons and Romain Kremer
Footwear and Accessories::: Eyewear and Louis Vuitton trainer heel.  
Active Trends (sport)::: fitness wear, scoop neck, gemotry panneling, mesh inserts, rugby shirts, panneling and layered shorts. 

Spectrum::: Peter Pilotto, ovarian state, olafur eliaicson refracted - ouch and light, Fred Butler - light sphere

Nurture::: Solar forest- which charges cars, and artist Robert hodgin and products coming in the form of test tubes, for packaging ideas for a variety of products

Quantum::: Mathematical molecules, remake of Asimov 1942 film, V-Star chair and table, Assia Logerot - halo l.e.d innovation.  

    Female core colours for a/w11/12 are muted and washed down mixed with fleshy pinks, red and purples. 
Male core colours are granite grey and marshland green with a splash of nova pink. 

Autumnal, earthy, slate, ginger, oatmeal and aluminum. 

Technical colour palette, petrol blues, oxide yellows and pinks. 

Mudpie document the development and building of trends showing the eveolution of them and consumer demographics that underpin all trends. One piece in the student pack which was a nice and informative touch was the Q&A sheets by Fiona Jenvey which gave insight into how Mudpie was formed, how the trend forecasting process works, who uses them, why and how and what you can get from their online service. Unfortunately I was never sent through a login for what was promised for three day trial of MPDclick, so I can't tell you much about what is avaliable on the site...  but I was given a little goodie bag to take away with me, if only I knew there was a {random} mini bottle of vodka in there for the train journey home.  


REISS::: Press Day

This post has been abit of a long-time coming... but I've finally bite the bullet and got to it. Reiss is one of those brands who just 'get it', you know really get the full brand concept, it just flows. When you enter into their head office and step onto their immaculate cream spongey stretched corridors, into their low celling, dimly backlit lift, it just screams out 'Reiss'. 

It's minimalist and simple lines are translated into the autumn/winter 2010 womenswear collection. Reiss personally for me embodies a sophisticated woman, who is not afraid of clothes but instead embraces them, empowered by them yet ultimately has fun with them with androgynous sensual and relaxed edge. When ever I approach a Reiss store my pace dramatically stalls as I gaze lustfully at the impeccably dressed maniquins which I would die to replace, if only I had the figure to match.  

The collection is as directional yet clean as ever, each piece is pure luxe construction with attention to detail, silhouette and materials. A Reiss closet would see you through for many years to come, not only with aforementioned quality but their unique ability to re-work classics with a hint and a nod towards the current seasons trend. The next season being undercurrents of military aesthetic steering to feminine and also masculine twists.  

1971 collection is now it's third season, the range has expanded quite considerably for this year, it's not just focused on denim but also highly fashionable key pieces. Effortlessly chic, the looks have a signature biker girl aesthetic, which colours and textures compliment the mainline range. 1971 is all about attitude and rebellious style...it is not just what you wear but how you wear it. 

on a slightly different note...

Talking of perceptions of brands, and associations we have with them, like for Reiss immediately comes into mind is: clean, minimalist, purity, rich and modern, how would you describe it?... although the site brand tags doesn't have Reiss in it's system it does have some other very iconic brands from retail to technology, drink companies to airlines. It is extremely interesting to browse through and see what people have to say about a brand, the larger and bolder the word represents the popularity of that choice of word...the smaller ones however are just as alluring to read, with often some quite comical and unusual suggestions put forward.  

So lets take America Apparel for example, the worldwide brand who has been recently reported of coming into some sticky financial and law suit woes. Have a read of the best fashion weekly email update... the Guardian's 'Fashion Statement'  to get a good ol' insight into the dark and ludicrous going on's  behind the scenes of a brand that could potential soon be adding itself to the list of disappearing high street chains. You won't actually be able to quite understand what are you are reading and the founder... wow what a character, could not make a character quite like him up even if you tried!  

see some of American Apparels brand tags below: 


Kirsty Draper - Big things to come...

Ok maybe only a slightly bit biased here, but I only can see amazing things ahead for Miss Draper. She recently showcased her Graduate Collection at Earls Court along with the rest Epsom's finest young designers. whom I am sure have painstakingly worked hours on end to produce their debut collections and there hard-work truly paid off with a amazing show, which drew in the crowds (que around the block) and gained the admiration of the press, including the Legendary Hilary Alexander

Kirsty had amazing support from all her family and friends on the night (see below) and there was an enormous uproar when her name was suddenly projected up onto the wall and her first model came striding out. I am not her only friend singing her praises, all the girls in the car on the way down, eagerly anticipating seeing her graduate collection agreed that Kirsty is not one of those people to let an opportunity pass her by. Showing at Graduate Fashion Week was never off her radar and her final collection was solid  contemporary interpretation on recycling- but in a classy, wearable and ultimately desirable way.  

"Kirsty Draper used strategically-placed circular, garter-style drawstrings to create unusual volume and silhouette in her primary-coloured collection." - Hilary Alexander (couldn't put it better myself Hilary) 

In full Support: Friends and Family celebrate with Kirsty after the show. 

The back on this jumpsuit is amazing!

Although I would hate to dispute my amazing photography skills, you can see Kirsty's full collection (official photographs) here.


GFW: UCA Epsom 2010

Not often will I say I'm proud to be a student a UCA Epsom but after Sundays strong graduate show I truly am! What a fantastic production and in the words of Hilary Alexander, it is "Another reason to like Epsom". The efforts of all the students shone through... just take a look.