A few weeks back now, I attended
Mudpie's Autumn/Winter 2011/12 trends seminar at my old haunt of London College of Fashion.
It was thought-provoking if anything and was a great insight, if a little much to take in all at once.
Fiona Jenvey, CEO of Mudpie and in her words an 'accidental entrepreneur' kicked off the business in 1992 with a focus on design consultancy. Now represented in over 50 countries internationally mudpie have 9
trend books, online resource
MPDclick and also offering there core value of
consultancy working with many leading brands.
Fiona who presented the main bulk of the seminar provided the audience with a concise 'round-up' Mudpie's 3 key trends for the coming season. which are: Synergy, Primal and Innovate, see below.
Synergy::: Pragmatism, simplicity, efficiency and considered.
- The end of decadence - changing patterns of consumption- new modern living.
- Reality not idealism
- Eliminating waste - product and process.
- An alternate path for consumer growth - important to share knowledge with your customer, i.e social media
Fabrics::: Cut out, devore, felted and matted effects, loose weaves, jacquard, tapestry and embossing.
Graphics::: String-art 1970's, female craftsmanship,
illustration- pen and ink. Tonal and linear. William Morris inspired prints.
Women:::
The Look::: Casual comfort - tailoring, jersey wrap, devore neckline.
Runway Inspiration::: Junko Shimada,
D&G,
Kenzo - Volume, geometric knit, combat traveller look, Scandinavian.
Street Style::: geometrics, vintage denim, playsuits made formal.
Retail::: Elasticated detail, gathered, harem jumpsuit, peasant dresses.
Footwear and Accessories::: Skater wedge heel boot (Disco copenhagen), Chunky neckwear (
Rodarte), Oversized chain (
Michael Kors).
Denim::: repurposing - pockets overlaid, stone wash (90's).
Active Trends (sport)::: Racer back shapes, breathable panels, detachable sleeves, place for integrated ipod.
Men:::
The Look::: Simple shapes, slash kneck t-shirts, double ended zips, rolled up tapered shorts, sportswear, vintage indigo.
Runway Inspiration::: semi formal,
Ann Demeulemeester. voluminous pant around the waist, chino trousers and scarfs.
Street Style::: slash necks customized, layered, nordic traveller, socks- bright, individual elements.
Retail::: Two tone, pinstripe cargo pant, tapered crop pant.
Denim::: Crackeled, marbled, contrast colour and oily look.
Active Trends (sport)::: surfboard market, alternate hoodie cords and technical plaid.
All trends are looked at in three phases:
Phase #1. Regeneration - Nordic social values and design influences
e.g: Thinking about the creative city, the creative environment. Investment and regeneration of creativity, Stockholm being a prime example. Sweden submits more patent applications than any-other country and therefore weathering the storm of the recession well. The creative brand is the more profitable brand! (The design council)
synergy can be eptiomised in Jean Nouvel spa in France,
'Les Bains des Dock'. The design is based on the community style Roman baths, which brings the locals together, a social space for well-being. Phase #2. Collectivism - Collective intelligence and knowledge sharing
e.g: Inspired by extreme handicraft, imperfections makes items unique. utilize the old, make something new and valuable.
There is a certain beauty in Una Hilm Kristjansdottir 'un-finshed' look designs (below).
Phase #3. Resolve - actually doing something about it, acknowledging the need to change.
Copenhagen climate conference, happened last year, although the result was maybe not achieved to what most people would like but the symbolism of it taking place and the events that took place around it are an important factor.
Alternate fashion week for example, saw major brand Levi setting out their sustainability plan for 2020.
Primal::: Collectivism & resourcefulness
- Renewed sense of spirituality
- Natural World
- Conscious effort towards change
Equinox - symbols in nature, pagan festivals, balance, well-being, wholeness, self-fulfillment, interest in ancient civilization and artifacts, instinct, survival nomadic living. Avatar - Pandora close to nature, totem fashion from designer
Bernard Wilhelm and
Green festivals such as Denmark ross kiehl.
For example artist G
eoffrey Gorman - which make sculptures from entirely from found items and Guss
Oosterbaan rock radio are examples of recycling and repurposing.
Consumers are becoming used to the recycled aesthetics which are crossing all design barriers from:
Rodarte- tribal nomadic warrior style to
Norway's global sea vault - to help us survive in the event of an apocalypse, the notion inspired Margaret Atwood's book '
The Year Of The Flood' which is brought on by large organisations. Our distrust with large organisations means it is very in vogue for companies to appear smaller.
The Look::: fluid silhouette, draping, shredded, floral, harem pants and peasant dresses.
Street Style::: customized items, festival look, multi layered jewelry.
Footwear and Accessories::: Medieval studded, chains, turnover tops and multi-charms.
The Look::: granddad t-shirts, faded, plaid, off bias cut, cowl necks, crackled leather.
Footwear and Accessories::: collection of necklaces, plaid knits, leather, rope, molten effect and texture.
Innovate::: Observation, knowledge and technology.
- Race is on - new solutions
- 'intellectual age'
- science rather than nature
- competitive intelligence - scientists to become the future celebrities.
Women:::
Fabrics::: geometrics - retro futurism
The Look::: Sporty engineered garments, asymmetric cut, geometry - triangular effect.
Street Style::: pleated detail and
prints.
Denim::: insert paneling, contrast stitch detail.
The Look::: Crew neck garments, simple stripping and technical.
Footwear and Accessories::: Eyewear and Louis Vuitton trainer heel.
Active Trends (sport)::: fitness wear, scoop neck, gemotry panneling, mesh inserts, rugby shirts, panneling and layered shorts.
Nurture::: Solar forest- which charges cars, and artist Robert hodgin and products coming in the form of test tubes, for packaging ideas for a variety of products.
Quantum::: Mathematical molecules, remake of Asimov 1942 film, V-Star chair and table, Assia Logerot - halo l.e.d innovation.
Synergy:::
Female core colours for a/w11/12 are muted and washed down mixed with fleshy pinks, red and purples.
Male core colours are granite grey and marshland green with a splash of nova pink.
Primal:::
Autumnal, earthy, slate, ginger, oatmeal and aluminum.
Innovate::
Technical colour palette, petrol blues, oxide yellows and pinks.
Mudpie document the development and building of trends showing the eveolution of them and consumer demographics that underpin all trends. One piece in the student pack which was a nice and informative touch was the Q&A sheets by Fiona Jenvey which gave insight into how Mudpie was formed, how the trend forecasting process works, who uses them, why and how and what you can get from their online service. Unfortunately I was never sent through a login for what was promised for three day trial of
MPDclick, so I can't tell you much about what is avaliable on the site... but I was given a little goodie bag to take away with me, if only I knew there was a {random} mini bottle of vodka in there for the train journey home.
2010) 
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